
by Laralynn Weiss
April 3, 1998
Situated at the gateway between southeastern Europe and Asia Minor, Turkey has long
claimed status as a cultural crossroads for the continents. Nowhere in the country is this
role more apparent than in its own cultural capital, Istanbul--a city that itself spans
across the literal divide between East and West. Visit Istanbul and you will find a
point of continental convergence with a deep history as a world center, a bustling
metropolis whose past includes tenure as the former capital of both the Byzantine and
Ottoman empires. Today the city has become a treasure chest of its own historical layers;
magnificent mosques and palaces serve as a visual backdrop for a lively street life and
all-encompassing cultural collage.
Istanbul's culture of contrasts appears at every level, from brand-new BMWs fighting
donkey-drawn carts for road space, to cosmopolites in jeans or designer suits passing
women wearing traditional long skirts and head coverings. Five times each day, the typical
metropolitan frenzy defers to ancient minarets ringing rhythms of prayer and the devout
kneeling on prayer rugs, facing towards Mecca.
The
city's physical geography matches its cultural diversity. The Bosphorus, the narrow strait
that literally separates the continents of Europe and Asia, runs directly through Istanbul
and separates the city into its own Asian and European regions.

Greater Istanbul is actually made up of three distinct cities: In Europe lie Old Istanbul
(Sultanahmet)--lavishly embellished with parks, gardens, palaces, and mosques that reach
back through the millenium--and the more modern New Town, which houses the larger hotels
and commercial district. Across the Bosphorus, in Asia, lies the suburban Uskudar
(Scutari). The Golden Horn, an inlet flowing four miles in from the Bosphorus, divides Old
Istanbul from New Town; the landmark Galata Bridge crosses the Golden Horn near its mouth,
connecting the old city with the new.
Most sites of interest to tourists are located in the heart of Old Istanbul, just a few
minutes' walk from where the Bosphorus flows into the Golden Horn. From the historical
architecture of its cityscape to the bustle of its bazaars and enticing aromas of its food
and drink, this city's cultural crossroads provides a fascinating tour for the senses.
Architectural Attractions
Istanbul's skyline itself testifies to the city's historical and cultural legacies.
Minarets and spires--most stemming from monumental architectural feats--pierce the horizon
from any vista point in the Old City.
Highlights include Hagia
Sophia (Aya Sofya), a structure that has not only survived the ages but adapted to
them. Built in 532, the church served as Constantinople's cathedral for close to 1,000
years, until 1453 when it was converted into a mosque by conquering Ottoman forces.
Physically, it is not only one of the largest free-standing buildings in the world, but
has also survived numerous earthquakes that turned smaller buildings into rubble. One of
the finest examples anywhere of Byzantine architecture, Hagia Sophia boasted the world's
largest dome (until the building of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome), and currently houses a
museum.
With one side facing Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Cami) is one of
the world's grandest monuments to Islam. With 260 stained-glass windows and six minarets
(more than any other mosque in the world), the Blue Mosque was built during the 17th
century with the intention of surpassing Hagia Sophia's testament to Christianity.
>Without
doubt the most popular attraction in Istanbul is Topkapi Saray, the former
residential palace of Ottoman sultans that overlooks both the Sea of Marmara and the
Bosphorus. The palace dates from the 15th century and was actively used by sultans and
their harems until the mid-19th century.
Turkish Bazaars
Apart from the awe-inspiring sight of Old Istanbul's architecture, one of the most
rewarding jolts to the senses comes with a visit to the city's enormous bazaars.
Built in the 15th century, the Grand Bazaar (Kapalicarsi) winds through 92
covered streets and holds over 4,000 tiny shops, cafes, and restaurants. As with the city
itself, the Bazaar holds a boisterous melange of old and new; expect to find everything
from curios and carpets to spices, sweets, and strong Turkish coffee.
To experience the second largest covered bazaar in the city, visit the Egyptian
Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi). This 17th-century complex began as a vast pharmacy
packed with remedies made of herbs and spices; today you will find heaps of dried fruits
and nuts, and sacks spilling open with culinary spices.
Food and Drink:
What "feast for the senses" could fail to include food and drink? Spicy
aromas fill the air at every turn in the heart of Old Istanbul. An abundance of fresh
fruits, vegetables, yogurt, and grains are used in Turkish cuisine, not to mention fresh
seafood, roast lamb, and kebabs of lamb, beef, or chicken. For a treat, try köfte,
succulent lamb ground by hand, seasoned with flavors ranging from onion to sesame to
paprika, made into meatballs, and served hot off the grill.
In Istanbul, almost everywhere you go you will be offered thimble-sized portions of
either very strong black tea (cay) or a deliciously sweet apple tea. For a small cup of
thick Turkish coffee, head to a coffeehouse, where you can order it either sweet (orta),
very sweet (sekerli), or plain (sade). The thin yogurt drink ayran proves
refreshing on hot days, and the grape and aniseed liquor raki goes splendidly with
any evening meal.
For more information on Istanbul, visit the Istanbul Guide on the Republic of
Turkey's Web page.
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